As the winter holidays pass, it's a good time to think about some tips and techniques for taking care of the plants that helped make our homes festive and warm.
The obvious place to start? Poinsettias, of course. Tagawa's brings in hundreds of poinsettias every holiday season. A great many of them are grown with pride in our greenhouses in Brighton. That extra T.L.C. really pays off.
The poinsettia I bought at Tagawa's nearly a month ago has barely lost a single leaf. It looks like it just came from our garden center!
Watering is a very big deal!
Proper watering is one of the keys to keeping a poinsettia happy. These beautiful holday plants aren't fussy, but they can be unforgiving if they get too dry. Once they wilt, or even begin to wilt, they may not recover.
My best advice is to take your poinsettia to the kitchen sink. Water it thoroughly at the base of the plant until the excess water flows freely out the drainage holes. Try not to get the leaves wet.
Let the plant drain thoroughly. Now, knowing that the plant's rootball is completely saturated, lift the plant and get a sense of how heavy it is. That will be your guide. When the plant is begun to dry out and is about half as heavy, probably in just a few days, it's time for another soaking.
You can also use a water meter. Tagawa's has a great assortment of meters to choose from. Or you can check the soil with your finger. When the top one-third of the soil is dry, it's time for another trip to the sink.
A few more tips...
Poinsettias will do best in bright, indirect light. And no drafts, please! That means the plants shouldn't go anywhere near a doorway, heat vent or fireplace.
If you keep them healthy, poinsettias can make a nice, lush houseplant that will be right at home outside in the summertime, in some bright filtered shade.
It is possible to make them "fire" or change color again for next season. One of Tagawa's plant experts will be happy to explain the steps you'll need to take next fall to make that happen.
T.L.C. for Christmas cactus
Christmas cactus is another holiday favorite. They're a real head-turner when they erupt into a mass of blossoms as the holidays approach. They can be a little frustrating when they don't read the calendar. Thus, references to a "Thanksgiving" cactus or an "Easter" cactus.
Like poinsettias, Christmas cactus can be tricked into blooming at the right time by giving them a prolonged and uninterrupted dark treatment. They can also can be prompted to set flowers with a six- to eight-week cool treatment, around 50 to 55 degrees.
Roots and watering
The Christmas cactus is a tropical-type cactus, and won't hold as much water as the name "cactus" might imply. The plants should be watered thoroughly, and then allowed to dry out somewhat. Once the top half of the soil is dry, it's time to water again.
Christmas cactus have very fine roots. If the soil is kept too wet, the roots can easily rot. This fine root system grows very slowly, and does best when the plant is slightly pot-bound.
Summer vacation
Christmas cactus does very well when it's moved outside during the summer. The plants should be placed in bright, filtered shade. However, speaking from personal experience, I have had my Christmas cactus munched by deer. A little more summer pruning than I had in mind.
The amazing amarylls
In his later years, I'd send my grandfather an amaryllis every Christmas. He couldn't get around much, and spent a lot of time in his easy chair.
He seemed to take pride in telling me that he was sure he could see the leaves and flower stalks of his amaryllis grow. That was a treat for both of us. And it's why I'm always quick to recommend an amaryllis bulb as a gift for people who want a dazzling, but low maintenance flowering plant for the holidays.
And after the flowers fade?
Amaryllis don't need bright light while they're blooming. The flowers that bloom the first year are "feeding" off of energy stored in the bulb months earlier. After the flowers are gone, a lot of people toss the bulbs out. But there are options....
If you want to bring your amaryllis into flower again next holiday season, then you need to pamper the leaves. Keep the leaves as healthy as possible, which means you don't cut them back unless they turn yellow and die back on their own.
With bright light and good quality soil, your amaryllis leaves should keep growing into spring, and perhaps longer. Once the plant goes dormant in the fall, you can remove it from its pot and store the bulb in a medium like perlite or vermiculite. The goal is to prevent the bulb from drying out by keeping the medium just slightly moist. The bulb can also be stored in a cool place in its existing pot, and watered very sparingly.
After a couple of months, the bulb should start to send out new shoots. That's when it's time to give it a warm sunny spot and the brightest indirect light you have to offer.
Feed me!
All of these holiday plants will benefit from regular feeding with a good quality houseplant fertilizer. The wonderful folks in Tagawa's houseplant department can give you plenty of choices and specifics.
Don't be shy about trying to coax your holiday plants into another show of color next season. You have nothing to loose, and you may well get some beautiful flowers that could make your T.L.C. pay off big!
Welcome to Tagawa's Blog
Thursday, December 27, 2012
Wednesday, December 19, 2012
COLD AND SNOW ARE GOOD!!
My toes don't like winter very much. The rest of me does okay, but my toes are cold from late September 'til early May.
Still, as a gardener, I have to admit that the cold weather is good for our plants, whether my toes like it or not.
Easy does it....
We've had a fairly gentle slide into colder temperatures, which is exactly how plants like it. Temperatures that steadily get lower and lower give plants a chance to adapt to the winter weather ahead.
I still distinctly remember a Front Range cold snap many years ago. Fall temperatures went from the 70's one day to single digit lows the next. Thousands of trees died. They couldn't shut down fast enough. The layers of cells that carry moisture just under the bark froze and burst. The tree's "delivery" system was done for. No more healthy tree.
Perennials are a bit tougher
As much as I hate to lose the lovely color that so many fall-blooming perennials bring, it's always a bit of a relief to see that top growth die down as the warm weather moves out. I know that's a loud and clear signal to the plant that it's nap time.
The roots of the perennial need a rest. The cold temperatures and the shortening day length deliver just the right message.
Now, as single-digit temps creep into our forecast, I can imagine the roots of the perennials all snug and safe, and just fine with a blanket of snow.
Speaking of snow.....
As I write this, I have about three inches of fresh snow covering my yard. But.... and it's a big but.... while this lovely powder may be great for the skiers, it's of little or no help to the plants. It's just too dry.
I'll grant you that some snow is better than none. But there's a risk in assuming that a dry snowfall like this actually counts toward your plants' need for "winter watering."
Here she goes again.
I know, I know. If you follow this blog at all, you've heard me go on repeatedly about how critical winter watering can be to your plants' survival. But it's well-worth repeating. So repeat I will.
Anytime we go a month or so without a good, soaking snow (or a soaking rain in the late fall or early spring), we need to fill in for Mother Nature. An inch of water delivered near the outer edge of a plant's root system can make all the difference.
With newly-planted trees and shrubs, the root system won't have grown all that much, so water just above the outside edge of the rootball.
More mature trees are a different story. Once a tree has been in the ground for a few years, its roots will finally begin to take off, assuming it's otherwise happy....right tree in the right spot... that sort of thing.
Watering a mature tree at the base of its trunk not only puts the water in the wrong place, it can actually damage the tree if the base of the trunk stays too wet.
It's also a good idea to give bulb beds, and even your lawn, a deep drink during prolong winter dry spells.
Come see us at Tagawa's!
Don't be shy! Tagawa's first-rate staff can easily advise you on when, where and how to water the trees, shrubs and other plants in your landscape.
Winter watering takes a little work.... like dragging out a hose on a warm winter morning. I'm a big fan of buckets myself. A few three-gallon buckets with spouts and nice padded handles make a great gift!
The only thing better: battery-operated socks. Feel free to take the hint.
Still, as a gardener, I have to admit that the cold weather is good for our plants, whether my toes like it or not.
Easy does it....
We've had a fairly gentle slide into colder temperatures, which is exactly how plants like it. Temperatures that steadily get lower and lower give plants a chance to adapt to the winter weather ahead.
I still distinctly remember a Front Range cold snap many years ago. Fall temperatures went from the 70's one day to single digit lows the next. Thousands of trees died. They couldn't shut down fast enough. The layers of cells that carry moisture just under the bark froze and burst. The tree's "delivery" system was done for. No more healthy tree.
Perennials are a bit tougher
As much as I hate to lose the lovely color that so many fall-blooming perennials bring, it's always a bit of a relief to see that top growth die down as the warm weather moves out. I know that's a loud and clear signal to the plant that it's nap time.
The roots of the perennial need a rest. The cold temperatures and the shortening day length deliver just the right message.
Now, as single-digit temps creep into our forecast, I can imagine the roots of the perennials all snug and safe, and just fine with a blanket of snow.
Speaking of snow.....
As I write this, I have about three inches of fresh snow covering my yard. But.... and it's a big but.... while this lovely powder may be great for the skiers, it's of little or no help to the plants. It's just too dry.
I'll grant you that some snow is better than none. But there's a risk in assuming that a dry snowfall like this actually counts toward your plants' need for "winter watering."
Here she goes again.
I know, I know. If you follow this blog at all, you've heard me go on repeatedly about how critical winter watering can be to your plants' survival. But it's well-worth repeating. So repeat I will.
Anytime we go a month or so without a good, soaking snow (or a soaking rain in the late fall or early spring), we need to fill in for Mother Nature. An inch of water delivered near the outer edge of a plant's root system can make all the difference.
With newly-planted trees and shrubs, the root system won't have grown all that much, so water just above the outside edge of the rootball.
More mature trees are a different story. Once a tree has been in the ground for a few years, its roots will finally begin to take off, assuming it's otherwise happy....right tree in the right spot... that sort of thing.
Watering a mature tree at the base of its trunk not only puts the water in the wrong place, it can actually damage the tree if the base of the trunk stays too wet.
It's also a good idea to give bulb beds, and even your lawn, a deep drink during prolong winter dry spells.
Come see us at Tagawa's!
Don't be shy! Tagawa's first-rate staff can easily advise you on when, where and how to water the trees, shrubs and other plants in your landscape.
Winter watering takes a little work.... like dragging out a hose on a warm winter morning. I'm a big fan of buckets myself. A few three-gallon buckets with spouts and nice padded handles make a great gift!
The only thing better: battery-operated socks. Feel free to take the hint.
Thursday, October 25, 2012
Why the Snow and Cold are a Good Thing
Our first measurable snow of the season, and the cold temperatures that go with it, have many of my friends grieving over the loss of summer. But we not only need the moisture. We also need the cold. More specifically, the plants, from trees on down, need the cold.
Sub-freezing temperatures are one of the best bug controls of all. I welcome the cold because it helps take down the house fly population. And that means I can leave my front door open for my pack of hounds to come and go without my constantly reaching for the fly swatter.
But it isn't just those insects still out and about that can fall victim to prolonged cold. Damaging bugs trying to over-winter in the soil or under the bark of trees can be killed, too. And that's a big help come next spring when our growing and gardening seasons return.
Plants take cues from Mother Nature
Shorter day-length is a big signal to plants that it's time to slow way down and rest for the winter. But cold temperatures play a significant role too, in coaxing plants into dormancy.
The wet snow that's fallen this week is just what the plant doctor ordered: nice and wet, but not heavy enough to break branches on trees and shrubs that haven't dropped all of their leaves yet.
We've had a beautiful show of fall color in the mountains and on the plains this year. One of the best autumn displays we've seen in a long while. But it's time for those brilliantly-colored leaves to give it up, and let the plants "nap" 'til next spring.
Compensating for Mother Nature
In the best of all gardening worlds, Mother Nature would deliver a lot more wet, soaking snow during the next six months or so. But we'd best assume that's not going to happen.
So when moisture from the sky falls short, it's our job to make up the difference with winter watering. I've written about winter watering before. I'll write about it again, because it's so vital to plant survival.
When we go without a good soaking snow every month or so, we need to drag out our garden hoses and make up for the difference. Remember that on average, in our soil, 85% of a tree's roots are in the top 12- to 18-inches of soil. Trees, shrubs, perennials and even lawns don't need frequent winter watering, they need occasional deep winter watering. There's a big difference.
Newly-planted trees, shrubs and perennials need enough moisture to soak down to the bottom of their root ball. More mature plants will have larger root systems, and should be watered near their "drip line," the outer-most point of their branches.
The amount of water needed to do that depends on the type of soil the plants are growing in, the slope of the ground and the exposure. Plants growing in south- and southwest-facing exposures tend to dry faster. You'll need to check the soil in your own landscape with a moisture meter or small spade. Tagawa's carries both, and our experienced staff will gladly offer
all the advice you'll need.
Colorado plants need winter!
Even folks who want to hang onto an endless summer usually agree that our plants need winter. It helps control damaging insects. It coaxes plants into dormancy. And hopefully, it brings some much-needed moisture.
But many of us who garden also welcome winter
for our own sake.... when Mother Nature finally forces us to put away our trowels and shovels.... at least for a while.
Sub-freezing temperatures are one of the best bug controls of all. I welcome the cold because it helps take down the house fly population. And that means I can leave my front door open for my pack of hounds to come and go without my constantly reaching for the fly swatter.
But it isn't just those insects still out and about that can fall victim to prolonged cold. Damaging bugs trying to over-winter in the soil or under the bark of trees can be killed, too. And that's a big help come next spring when our growing and gardening seasons return.
Plants take cues from Mother Nature
Shorter day-length is a big signal to plants that it's time to slow way down and rest for the winter. But cold temperatures play a significant role too, in coaxing plants into dormancy.
The wet snow that's fallen this week is just what the plant doctor ordered: nice and wet, but not heavy enough to break branches on trees and shrubs that haven't dropped all of their leaves yet.
We've had a beautiful show of fall color in the mountains and on the plains this year. One of the best autumn displays we've seen in a long while. But it's time for those brilliantly-colored leaves to give it up, and let the plants "nap" 'til next spring.
Compensating for Mother Nature
In the best of all gardening worlds, Mother Nature would deliver a lot more wet, soaking snow during the next six months or so. But we'd best assume that's not going to happen.
So when moisture from the sky falls short, it's our job to make up the difference with winter watering. I've written about winter watering before. I'll write about it again, because it's so vital to plant survival.
When we go without a good soaking snow every month or so, we need to drag out our garden hoses and make up for the difference. Remember that on average, in our soil, 85% of a tree's roots are in the top 12- to 18-inches of soil. Trees, shrubs, perennials and even lawns don't need frequent winter watering, they need occasional deep winter watering. There's a big difference.
Newly-planted trees, shrubs and perennials need enough moisture to soak down to the bottom of their root ball. More mature plants will have larger root systems, and should be watered near their "drip line," the outer-most point of their branches.
The amount of water needed to do that depends on the type of soil the plants are growing in, the slope of the ground and the exposure. Plants growing in south- and southwest-facing exposures tend to dry faster. You'll need to check the soil in your own landscape with a moisture meter or small spade. Tagawa's carries both, and our experienced staff will gladly offer
all the advice you'll need.
Colorado plants need winter!
Even folks who want to hang onto an endless summer usually agree that our plants need winter. It helps control damaging insects. It coaxes plants into dormancy. And hopefully, it brings some much-needed moisture.
But many of us who garden also welcome winter
for our own sake.... when Mother Nature finally forces us to put away our trowels and shovels.... at least for a while.
Wednesday, October 17, 2012
Plant Spring Bulbs Now!
Picture this!
Picture a long, chilly winter. The landscape is fairly drab and colorless. Will spring ever come?!
Now, picture an array of daffodils, tulips, hyacinths and crocus in beautiful, bold scolors. Interested? Well, there is no better time than now to plant those spring bulbs that will greet and dazzle you next season.
Planting bulbs can be as easy or as involved as you want to make it. During October and early November, the soil hasn't frozen yet. And as long as you can dig, you can plant bulbs. Obviously, how many bulbs you plant is up to you. But once you see their spring show, you may find yourself planting more and more every year.
Basic bulb-plating tips and tricks: Tip #1
The bigger the bulb, the bigger the flower. Seems pretty logical, right? It's helpful to know that a flower bulb isn't the same thing as a seed. Kris, Tagawa's bulb expert, says we should think of bulbs as "swollen storage systems." Cut one in half, and you'll see layers of future leaves surrounding a tiny stem and an embryonic flower. Cut open a hyacinth, for example, and the pale, half-inch tall blossom is clearly visible. (And it's a great "visual" for kids.)
If you're buying individual bulbs, it's well worth the money to invest in the largest bulbs you can find for that flower type. Tagawa's has a big selection to choose from.
If you want a cluster of the same flowers, pre-packaged bags of bulbs make sense. They'll be less expensive per bulb, but they'll also be smaller than the premium bulbs. It's a trade off.
Tip #2: Add organic material
Odds are that if you're planting in Colorado, your soil is good old Colorado clay. (For the record, the "good old" part is a joke. A little gardening humor....) Bulbs don't like heavy clay soil, but don't despair. Compost is the answer. Mix a few scoops of compost into the planting hole before you set in the bulbs. The compost will help to lighten the soil so it doesn't stay too wet. Give a bulb a soggy planting site, and it's very likely to rot before it ever blooms.
Compost is also the answer if you have sandy soil that drains too quickly. The organic material will help hold on to moisture.
Tip #3: A little food, please...
Your bulbs will definitely appreciate a little phosphate boost. Sprinkle the phosphate into the planting hole with the compost, stir to mix and then start planting. The staff at Tagawa's can point out the
phospate fertilizer that you need.
Tip #3: Easy does it as you plant
The flat end of a bulb is the end with the roots, and should go next to bottom of the hole. The pointy end is the top and should be pointing up when you plant.
Remember that bulbs can bruise and damage. You don't want to smash them into the soil Just set them in carefully, give them a gentle push so they're well-seated, and then cover them up.
Tip #4: Planting depth is a big deal!
The rule of thumb for our climate is to plant a bulb three to four times its height. Example: if a daffodil bulb is two inches tall, it needs to be planted six to eight inches deep.
Bulbs that are planted too high can emerge too soon in the spring and get zapped by the cold.
And here's a great planting tip from Kris: plant in "bouquets." You don't have to plant just one kind of bulb in each place. Dig a hole wide enough and deep enough to accomodate different types of bulbs. The largest bulbs, often daffodils, go in first. Cover them with some compost-amended soil, then plant tulips, for example, above the daffodils at their proper depth.
Cover again, and plant still smaller bulbs on top of the tulips.
Depending on the bulbs you choose, you could have different flowers blooming at the same time, or have a succession of blooms.... one type of flower after another. Either way, it's a great look!
Tip # 5: Care after planting
Water the bulbs well once you're done planting. They'll actually begin to grow while the soil is still warm, but you won't see the shoots since they'll all stay underground.
Kris recommends that once the soil is "good and cold," usually some time in December, mulch the bulb beds to hold in the cold. That helps to keep the bulbs from "waking up" during one of our warm spells in winter.
Remember to water them once a month during the winter if we haven't had a good, soaking snow. It can make all the difference in keeping the bulbs healthy until spring.
Tip #6: After the flowers have gone....
Be sure to cut off the flowers and stalks as the blossoms begin to fade. Plants are programmed by Mother Nature to set seed. "Dead heading," cutting off the flowers as they begin to fail, prevents the formation of seeds. And that keeps more energy going to to next year's show of color.
Now go plant some bulbs! Give them a little T.L.C., and you'll be well-rewarded next spring.
Picture a long, chilly winter. The landscape is fairly drab and colorless. Will spring ever come?!
Now, picture an array of daffodils, tulips, hyacinths and crocus in beautiful, bold scolors. Interested? Well, there is no better time than now to plant those spring bulbs that will greet and dazzle you next season.
Planting bulbs can be as easy or as involved as you want to make it. During October and early November, the soil hasn't frozen yet. And as long as you can dig, you can plant bulbs. Obviously, how many bulbs you plant is up to you. But once you see their spring show, you may find yourself planting more and more every year.
Basic bulb-plating tips and tricks: Tip #1
The bigger the bulb, the bigger the flower. Seems pretty logical, right? It's helpful to know that a flower bulb isn't the same thing as a seed. Kris, Tagawa's bulb expert, says we should think of bulbs as "swollen storage systems." Cut one in half, and you'll see layers of future leaves surrounding a tiny stem and an embryonic flower. Cut open a hyacinth, for example, and the pale, half-inch tall blossom is clearly visible. (And it's a great "visual" for kids.)
If you're buying individual bulbs, it's well worth the money to invest in the largest bulbs you can find for that flower type. Tagawa's has a big selection to choose from.
If you want a cluster of the same flowers, pre-packaged bags of bulbs make sense. They'll be less expensive per bulb, but they'll also be smaller than the premium bulbs. It's a trade off.
Tip #2: Add organic material
Odds are that if you're planting in Colorado, your soil is good old Colorado clay. (For the record, the "good old" part is a joke. A little gardening humor....) Bulbs don't like heavy clay soil, but don't despair. Compost is the answer. Mix a few scoops of compost into the planting hole before you set in the bulbs. The compost will help to lighten the soil so it doesn't stay too wet. Give a bulb a soggy planting site, and it's very likely to rot before it ever blooms.
Compost is also the answer if you have sandy soil that drains too quickly. The organic material will help hold on to moisture.
Tip #3: A little food, please...
Your bulbs will definitely appreciate a little phosphate boost. Sprinkle the phosphate into the planting hole with the compost, stir to mix and then start planting. The staff at Tagawa's can point out the
phospate fertilizer that you need.
Tip #3: Easy does it as you plant
The flat end of a bulb is the end with the roots, and should go next to bottom of the hole. The pointy end is the top and should be pointing up when you plant.
Remember that bulbs can bruise and damage. You don't want to smash them into the soil Just set them in carefully, give them a gentle push so they're well-seated, and then cover them up.
Tip #4: Planting depth is a big deal!
The rule of thumb for our climate is to plant a bulb three to four times its height. Example: if a daffodil bulb is two inches tall, it needs to be planted six to eight inches deep.
Bulbs that are planted too high can emerge too soon in the spring and get zapped by the cold.
And here's a great planting tip from Kris: plant in "bouquets." You don't have to plant just one kind of bulb in each place. Dig a hole wide enough and deep enough to accomodate different types of bulbs. The largest bulbs, often daffodils, go in first. Cover them with some compost-amended soil, then plant tulips, for example, above the daffodils at their proper depth.
Cover again, and plant still smaller bulbs on top of the tulips.
Depending on the bulbs you choose, you could have different flowers blooming at the same time, or have a succession of blooms.... one type of flower after another. Either way, it's a great look!
Tip # 5: Care after planting
Water the bulbs well once you're done planting. They'll actually begin to grow while the soil is still warm, but you won't see the shoots since they'll all stay underground.
Kris recommends that once the soil is "good and cold," usually some time in December, mulch the bulb beds to hold in the cold. That helps to keep the bulbs from "waking up" during one of our warm spells in winter.
Remember to water them once a month during the winter if we haven't had a good, soaking snow. It can make all the difference in keeping the bulbs healthy until spring.
Tip #6: After the flowers have gone....
Be sure to cut off the flowers and stalks as the blossoms begin to fade. Plants are programmed by Mother Nature to set seed. "Dead heading," cutting off the flowers as they begin to fail, prevents the formation of seeds. And that keeps more energy going to to next year's show of color.
Now go plant some bulbs! Give them a little T.L.C., and you'll be well-rewarded next spring.
Thursday, September 27, 2012
Garlic: One of the basic food groups.
In my world, garlic is one of the basic food groups (along with dark chocolate, of course.) Some people are surprised to learn that garlic grows great in our Colorado climate. And with the gourmet varieties that Tagawa Gardens sells every fall, you'll be amazed at how much better home-grown garlic tastes than the more bland one-size-fits-all garlic you can buy in the grocery store.
Just listen to some of the exotic names of the garlic you'll find at Tagawa's: "Porcelain," "Purple Stripes," "Rocambole" and "Chet's Italian Red."
Garlic planted in the fall (October is ideal), will begin to develop roots before the ground freezes, and be ready to take off come spring.
There are two strains of garlic, "hardneck" and "softneck." Don't worry too much about the technicalities. Just remember that the hardneck varieties are known for their superior flavor, but don't store as long at the softnecks. And if you're crafty and want to braid your havested garlic, you'll want to make sure you plant the softneck varieties. Both strains like the same growing conditions.
Garlic is a little fussy about the soil it grows in. Our heavy Colorado clay needs to be amended with compost or peat moss to provide a deep, well-drained bed. The cloves could rot in a soil that stays soggy. The looser your soil is, the larger the bulbs will
be.
Once you have your garlic bulbs in hand, don't separate them into individual cloves until you're ready to plant. That will help to keep them from drying out. .
Planting the largest cloves will give you larger bulbs when you harvest next summer. Each clove needs to be planted with the pointy end up and the blunt side down. But it's time for a confession. For some unknowm reason, one year I planted all of my garlic upside-down. Go figure. The garlic still grew just fine. The stem made an underground U-turn and headed for the sunlight, but it's not a planting technique I recommend.
Once you've amended your soil until it's fairly loose and light, the individual cloves can easily just be pushed into place. The cloves should be planted about three inches deep and at least four inches apart. Kris, Tagawa's garlic and herb expert, recommends
adding a little 5-10-10 fertilizer as you plant each clove.
Don't worry if your garlic begins to send up green top growth before winter sets in. Snow and freezing temperatures won't damage the plants.
Garlic doesn't compete well with weeds. A layer of loose mulch that won't pack down will help keep the weeds at bay and keep soil moisture more even.
Several inches of straw or shredded leaves would work well. If we have a dry winter, it's worth your time to drag out the hose every four to six weeks hose and give your garlic a good drink.
Once warm spring weather arrives, your garlic will take off. The hardneck varieties will send up what's called a "scape," basically a garlic flower. It's best to remove the scape so all of the plant's energy goes toward making a nice, plump bulb.
I think harvesting garlic is great fun. Once you see the foliage begin to dry out in mid-summer, back off of the watering. The garlic is ready to harvest when half of the top growth has dried out.
A garden fork is better than a shovel for gently lifting the bulbs out of the ground. Don't cut the bulbs from their leaves. Gather the bulbs in bundles of five to ten plants and hang them upside down in an airy place out of direct sunlight. The bulbs will store better if they're allowed to cure for three to four weeks.
Once the garlic has thoroughly cured, cut off the top growth about half an inch above the neck of the bulb. Trim the roots and scuff off any dried soil. The garlic will keep best in something like a netted onion bag in a well-vented area that stays cool, but not cold. Never store your garlic in a refrigerator. It will think its going through winter and begin to sprout.
There are dozens of ways to use your home-grown garlic. Oven-roasted garlic and a loaf of fresh bread is pretty hard to beat.
You might want to plant more garlic than you really think you need. Once your friends know you have home-grown gourmet garlic, expect them to be knocking at your door.
Just listen to some of the exotic names of the garlic you'll find at Tagawa's: "Porcelain," "Purple Stripes," "Rocambole" and "Chet's Italian Red."
Garlic planted in the fall (October is ideal), will begin to develop roots before the ground freezes, and be ready to take off come spring.
There are two strains of garlic, "hardneck" and "softneck." Don't worry too much about the technicalities. Just remember that the hardneck varieties are known for their superior flavor, but don't store as long at the softnecks. And if you're crafty and want to braid your havested garlic, you'll want to make sure you plant the softneck varieties. Both strains like the same growing conditions.
Garlic is a little fussy about the soil it grows in. Our heavy Colorado clay needs to be amended with compost or peat moss to provide a deep, well-drained bed. The cloves could rot in a soil that stays soggy. The looser your soil is, the larger the bulbs will
be.
Once you have your garlic bulbs in hand, don't separate them into individual cloves until you're ready to plant. That will help to keep them from drying out. .
Planting the largest cloves will give you larger bulbs when you harvest next summer. Each clove needs to be planted with the pointy end up and the blunt side down. But it's time for a confession. For some unknowm reason, one year I planted all of my garlic upside-down. Go figure. The garlic still grew just fine. The stem made an underground U-turn and headed for the sunlight, but it's not a planting technique I recommend.
Once you've amended your soil until it's fairly loose and light, the individual cloves can easily just be pushed into place. The cloves should be planted about three inches deep and at least four inches apart. Kris, Tagawa's garlic and herb expert, recommends
adding a little 5-10-10 fertilizer as you plant each clove.
Don't worry if your garlic begins to send up green top growth before winter sets in. Snow and freezing temperatures won't damage the plants.
Garlic doesn't compete well with weeds. A layer of loose mulch that won't pack down will help keep the weeds at bay and keep soil moisture more even.
Several inches of straw or shredded leaves would work well. If we have a dry winter, it's worth your time to drag out the hose every four to six weeks hose and give your garlic a good drink.
Once warm spring weather arrives, your garlic will take off. The hardneck varieties will send up what's called a "scape," basically a garlic flower. It's best to remove the scape so all of the plant's energy goes toward making a nice, plump bulb.
I think harvesting garlic is great fun. Once you see the foliage begin to dry out in mid-summer, back off of the watering. The garlic is ready to harvest when half of the top growth has dried out.
A garden fork is better than a shovel for gently lifting the bulbs out of the ground. Don't cut the bulbs from their leaves. Gather the bulbs in bundles of five to ten plants and hang them upside down in an airy place out of direct sunlight. The bulbs will store better if they're allowed to cure for three to four weeks.
Once the garlic has thoroughly cured, cut off the top growth about half an inch above the neck of the bulb. Trim the roots and scuff off any dried soil. The garlic will keep best in something like a netted onion bag in a well-vented area that stays cool, but not cold. Never store your garlic in a refrigerator. It will think its going through winter and begin to sprout.
There are dozens of ways to use your home-grown garlic. Oven-roasted garlic and a loaf of fresh bread is pretty hard to beat.
You might want to plant more garlic than you really think you need. Once your friends know you have home-grown gourmet garlic, expect them to be knocking at your door.
Thursday, February 16, 2012
Seed-starting 101
As I write this, we are smack dab in the middle of winter. The snow is being especially stubborn about melting, which has a lot of gardeners even more wistful for the arrival of spring. But there is one gardening project you should be seriously considering: starting some garden plants from seed.
It's easier than you think!
No garden center I know of has a better springtime selection of bedding plants than Tagawa's. But there still might be something different you'd like to try.... or maybe you're just up for a little adventure while you wait out winter. Starting plants from seed may be just what you need!
It's so easy, a child could do it. In fact, if you have any children handy, recruit them to help you. For big folks and little folks, there's a special wonder to eating a bright red tomato in the summer, knowing that it started out as that tiny cream-colored seed back when.
Equipment list
The first item on your list: seeds, of course. Tagawa's seed racks are bursting with hundreds of choices of flowers and seeds that can be started indoors. Be careful of left-over seed from a past gardening season. Seeds' viability.... it's vigor.... can diminish quickly, and result in a poor germination rate.
You'll also want to use a seed-starting mix sold just for this purpose. These mixes are sterile, which cuts down on disease problems for your delicate seedlings. And I don't have to tell you not to use soil from your garden, right? Right. Soil from your garden should stay in your garden, and never end up in flower containers or in the tiny pots your seedlings will be growing in. Just too much risk of importing problems you don't need.
Here a pot, there a pot...
Any small, spanking-clean container with a hole for drainage can be used for starting seeds. Or you can treat yourself to ready-made products especially designed for this project.
There are lots of combinations of small cell-packs and plastic pots that work perfectly for starting seeds. Kris, Tagawa's Annuals Co-director, also likes the ease of peat pots, Jiffy pots and something new: "
Root Riots." Check 'em out. They're little pre-formed cubes of seed-starting mix. They're cute as the dickens, and making planting the seeds a snap.
Let the seed packet be your guide!
There is so much information on seed packets that can help gardeners succeed. The packet will say whether a particular flower or veggie is appropriate for starting indoors. And it will tell you when to plant... usually referring to your area's last frost. For metro Denver, the average last frost is mid- to late May.
The seed packet will also tell you how deeply the seed should be planted. Planting seeds too deeply is one of the most common reasons that a seedling "crop" fails. The standard rule is to plant a seed twice its depth. Twice a tomato seed's depth is about and eighth of an inch. Some very tiny seeds aren't "planted" at all. They're just dusted sparingly on top of the moist planting mix, and gently pushed down just a bit.
And yes, I said "moist" planting mix. It's much easier to moisten the planting mix with warm water before any seeds go in. Set the pots or cell packs in a tray of warm water and let the planting medium soak up the moisture through the drainage holes in the bottom the pots This is also how you'll water the seedlings until they're strong enough to stand up to gentle overhead watering,
Two more steps
Trying to start seedlings in a "bright window" often doesn't work. The seedlings simply need more light that most "bright windows" can deliver.
The answer is to set your seed trays under florescent light fixtures... what you might think of as "shop lights," the kind often mounted above a work bench. Hanging the lights from chains that can be adjusted for length is perfect.
And trust me on this one: the lights will need to be almost touching the plants.... within three inches or so, for about 14 hours a day. That's how much light the seedlings will need to be robust and stocky. Spindly seedlings are usually trying to tell you that they're not getting nearly enough light. And once a seedling gets leggy, it doesn't make for a good transplant.
The clear humidity domes that are generally used when the seeds are planted can be removed once the seedlings are up, letting you put the lights right down at plant level.
Also make sure the seedlings get good air circulation to prevent a fungal disease called "damping off." With too much moisture and too little air flow, damping off can cause your seedlings to collapse right at the soil line. It's a sad sight to see a whole tray of vigorous little plants just laying down.... done for.
A little heat would be nice....
A lot of seeds respond very well to "bottom heat." And the easiest way to deliver that is with a special heat mat made just for this purpose. Tagawa's has heat mats in stock. One of our gardening pro's will be happy to explain how to use them.
Bottom line...
With the right seeds, the proper planting mix, good planting technique and lots of bright light, there's no reason you can't have bragging rights come summer, letting folks know that you grew these flowers or those veggies from seed. Well done!
It's easier than you think!
No garden center I know of has a better springtime selection of bedding plants than Tagawa's. But there still might be something different you'd like to try.... or maybe you're just up for a little adventure while you wait out winter. Starting plants from seed may be just what you need!
It's so easy, a child could do it. In fact, if you have any children handy, recruit them to help you. For big folks and little folks, there's a special wonder to eating a bright red tomato in the summer, knowing that it started out as that tiny cream-colored seed back when.
Equipment list
The first item on your list: seeds, of course. Tagawa's seed racks are bursting with hundreds of choices of flowers and seeds that can be started indoors. Be careful of left-over seed from a past gardening season. Seeds' viability.... it's vigor.... can diminish quickly, and result in a poor germination rate.
You'll also want to use a seed-starting mix sold just for this purpose. These mixes are sterile, which cuts down on disease problems for your delicate seedlings. And I don't have to tell you not to use soil from your garden, right? Right. Soil from your garden should stay in your garden, and never end up in flower containers or in the tiny pots your seedlings will be growing in. Just too much risk of importing problems you don't need.
Here a pot, there a pot...
Any small, spanking-clean container with a hole for drainage can be used for starting seeds. Or you can treat yourself to ready-made products especially designed for this project.
There are lots of combinations of small cell-packs and plastic pots that work perfectly for starting seeds. Kris, Tagawa's Annuals Co-director, also likes the ease of peat pots, Jiffy pots and something new: "
Root Riots." Check 'em out. They're little pre-formed cubes of seed-starting mix. They're cute as the dickens, and making planting the seeds a snap.
Let the seed packet be your guide!
There is so much information on seed packets that can help gardeners succeed. The packet will say whether a particular flower or veggie is appropriate for starting indoors. And it will tell you when to plant... usually referring to your area's last frost. For metro Denver, the average last frost is mid- to late May.
The seed packet will also tell you how deeply the seed should be planted. Planting seeds too deeply is one of the most common reasons that a seedling "crop" fails. The standard rule is to plant a seed twice its depth. Twice a tomato seed's depth is about and eighth of an inch. Some very tiny seeds aren't "planted" at all. They're just dusted sparingly on top of the moist planting mix, and gently pushed down just a bit.
And yes, I said "moist" planting mix. It's much easier to moisten the planting mix with warm water before any seeds go in. Set the pots or cell packs in a tray of warm water and let the planting medium soak up the moisture through the drainage holes in the bottom the pots This is also how you'll water the seedlings until they're strong enough to stand up to gentle overhead watering,
Two more steps
Trying to start seedlings in a "bright window" often doesn't work. The seedlings simply need more light that most "bright windows" can deliver.
The answer is to set your seed trays under florescent light fixtures... what you might think of as "shop lights," the kind often mounted above a work bench. Hanging the lights from chains that can be adjusted for length is perfect.
And trust me on this one: the lights will need to be almost touching the plants.... within three inches or so, for about 14 hours a day. That's how much light the seedlings will need to be robust and stocky. Spindly seedlings are usually trying to tell you that they're not getting nearly enough light. And once a seedling gets leggy, it doesn't make for a good transplant.
The clear humidity domes that are generally used when the seeds are planted can be removed once the seedlings are up, letting you put the lights right down at plant level.
Also make sure the seedlings get good air circulation to prevent a fungal disease called "damping off." With too much moisture and too little air flow, damping off can cause your seedlings to collapse right at the soil line. It's a sad sight to see a whole tray of vigorous little plants just laying down.... done for.
A little heat would be nice....
A lot of seeds respond very well to "bottom heat." And the easiest way to deliver that is with a special heat mat made just for this purpose. Tagawa's has heat mats in stock. One of our gardening pro's will be happy to explain how to use them.
Bottom line...
With the right seeds, the proper planting mix, good planting technique and lots of bright light, there's no reason you can't have bragging rights come summer, letting folks know that you grew these flowers or those veggies from seed. Well done!
Friday, February 10, 2012
Tired of snow? Your landscape isn't...
Okay, so I've never been to Minnesota. I'm sure it's lovely. But I'm just not in the mood for what feels like a Minnesota winter.... where you can't see the grass from fall to spring 'cause there's always snow on the ground, and it just won't melt!
I'm spoiled. Colorado winters frequently give us blue-skies and sunshine breaks between storms, so the snow actually has a chance to disappear.
But I'll stop whining now, and look on the bright side, and there definitely is one! Moisture!! And lots of it out of this last storm. Officially, snowfall is measured near DIA, which reported 15 inches of snow from last weekend's storm. The National Weather folks say there was .8" of moisture in those 15 inches of snow.
So those of us who were shoveling out 22 inches and more must have recieved over an inch of moisture, right? Just knowing that makes me feel better about my three hours of shoveling and snowblowing. (And truth be told, I'm still not done.)
Winter water is a big deal?
You bet! (spoken with an adorable Minnesota accent.) Water in winter is a very big deal if you're a landscape plant in a semi-arid place like Colorado.
A lot of people seem to think that when plants go dormant in the fall, they basically take a full "time out!" Not so. The visible portions of the tree or shrub may seem to be frozen in time. But the parts of the plant you can't see, the roots, are still on duty, collecting whatever moisture they can find
and "delivering" it up into the plant on warm days.
So when we get a nice, soaking snow like this past storm gave us, I should be doing more cartwheels than complaining. Then again, you haven't seen my cartwheels
Those tricky trees
I'm convinced that trees have a vindictive streak. If a tree doesn't get enough water during winter, some (or all) of the roots will die. This is especially true of younger trees, those planted during the past few seasons. But the damage to the roots may not show up right away.
Spring rolls around and the tree leafs out and looks vigorous and healthy, using food and energy stored up last season. But it's a trick! When the heat of summer moves in, and the tree is calling for more water, the root system can't deliver. Too much of it dried out and died last winter. The tree's leaves may suddenly discolor or start to dry up and fall off. "Winter dessication" is the technical name for it. I'm cutting to the chase, and just saying the roots dried up and died.
Roots don't have to die!
The general rule of thumb for winter watering is this: If your landscape hasn't received about an inch of moisture in the past four weeks, get ready to drag around some hoses on a warm winter day when the ground isn't frozen. (Don't use the sprinkler system unless you want to blow it out again.)
For young trees and shrubs, set the sprinkler or hose over the outer edges of the root system. The root ball will still be fairly small. Don't water right at the very base of the tree or shrub. That's not where the roots are.
For older trees and shrubs, put the water down in a zig-zag pattern just inside the outermost point of the branches, what's called the "dripline."
Make sure you finish that day's watering in time for the moisture to soak in before freezing termperatures return. We're not trying to make a skating rink.
If trees or shrubs do show winter damage once summer's heat sets in, begin to water them appropriately for their type of tree or shurb, its age, size, and location. Over-watering at that point will only make things worse. The Garden Experts and Tagawa's can help you if you have specific questions.
Don't cheat the lawn!
Lawns routinely show winter damage once spring rolls around. Turf on south and southwest exposures, and turf grown on a slope, can be especially challenging. Again, a hose.... a sprinkler...a warm morning... You get the idea.
If you do this one thing....
If you can push yourself (or your kids) to winter water during dry spells, it can be one of the best things you can do for your landscape. Really!
If it helps, think of it in terms of dollars: trees and shrubs that go into spring strong and healthy, thanks to winter watering, are trees and shrubs you won't have to pay to replace.
I'm spoiled. Colorado winters frequently give us blue-skies and sunshine breaks between storms, so the snow actually has a chance to disappear.
But I'll stop whining now, and look on the bright side, and there definitely is one! Moisture!! And lots of it out of this last storm. Officially, snowfall is measured near DIA, which reported 15 inches of snow from last weekend's storm. The National Weather folks say there was .8" of moisture in those 15 inches of snow.
So those of us who were shoveling out 22 inches and more must have recieved over an inch of moisture, right? Just knowing that makes me feel better about my three hours of shoveling and snowblowing. (And truth be told, I'm still not done.)
Winter water is a big deal?
You bet! (spoken with an adorable Minnesota accent.) Water in winter is a very big deal if you're a landscape plant in a semi-arid place like Colorado.
A lot of people seem to think that when plants go dormant in the fall, they basically take a full "time out!" Not so. The visible portions of the tree or shrub may seem to be frozen in time. But the parts of the plant you can't see, the roots, are still on duty, collecting whatever moisture they can find
and "delivering" it up into the plant on warm days.
So when we get a nice, soaking snow like this past storm gave us, I should be doing more cartwheels than complaining. Then again, you haven't seen my cartwheels
Those tricky trees
I'm convinced that trees have a vindictive streak. If a tree doesn't get enough water during winter, some (or all) of the roots will die. This is especially true of younger trees, those planted during the past few seasons. But the damage to the roots may not show up right away.
Spring rolls around and the tree leafs out and looks vigorous and healthy, using food and energy stored up last season. But it's a trick! When the heat of summer moves in, and the tree is calling for more water, the root system can't deliver. Too much of it dried out and died last winter. The tree's leaves may suddenly discolor or start to dry up and fall off. "Winter dessication" is the technical name for it. I'm cutting to the chase, and just saying the roots dried up and died.
Roots don't have to die!
The general rule of thumb for winter watering is this: If your landscape hasn't received about an inch of moisture in the past four weeks, get ready to drag around some hoses on a warm winter day when the ground isn't frozen. (Don't use the sprinkler system unless you want to blow it out again.)
For young trees and shrubs, set the sprinkler or hose over the outer edges of the root system. The root ball will still be fairly small. Don't water right at the very base of the tree or shrub. That's not where the roots are.
For older trees and shrubs, put the water down in a zig-zag pattern just inside the outermost point of the branches, what's called the "dripline."
Make sure you finish that day's watering in time for the moisture to soak in before freezing termperatures return. We're not trying to make a skating rink.
If trees or shrubs do show winter damage once summer's heat sets in, begin to water them appropriately for their type of tree or shurb, its age, size, and location. Over-watering at that point will only make things worse. The Garden Experts and Tagawa's can help you if you have specific questions.
Don't cheat the lawn!
Lawns routinely show winter damage once spring rolls around. Turf on south and southwest exposures, and turf grown on a slope, can be especially challenging. Again, a hose.... a sprinkler...a warm morning... You get the idea.
If you do this one thing....
If you can push yourself (or your kids) to winter water during dry spells, it can be one of the best things you can do for your landscape. Really!
If it helps, think of it in terms of dollars: trees and shrubs that go into spring strong and healthy, thanks to winter watering, are trees and shrubs you won't have to pay to replace.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
